by Laura Kay
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- White Foundation
- Black Pencil Eyeliner
- Matte Black Eyeshadow
- Black Gel Eyeliner
- Foundation Sponge or Brush
- Large Powder Brush
- Small to Medium Powder, Contour, or Blush Brush
- Small Shader Brush
- Small Smudge Brush
- Small Blending Brush
- Concealer Brush
- Less is more! Use small amounts of each product and apply with a very light hand. Working with jet black makeup can be tricky and can get messy real quick! Keep it neat by applying carefully and softly.
- Use very matte, drier formulations for each product. Greasy white face paint, soft, creamy eyeliner pencil or oily black bases will move on the skin and smudge very easily. Using products that are more matte or powdery will ensure that they stay put and blend easily, giving you full control of where you want shading and contour to be.
THE TRANSFORMATION PROCESS
Step 1:Using a foundation brush or sponge, apply a white foundation or face paint to your entire face, from the hairline to the lower jawline. Set with a white or translucent setting powder on a large fluffy powder brush to mattify the face as much as possible – this part is important. Mattifying the skin will help keep the look from smudging later when you start using black eyeliner and eyeshadow.
With a sharpened black eyeliner, roughly draw out the bone structure of a skull’s face:
- Draw a circular shape around each eye, starting at the outer tail of each brow and following along the orbital bone as a guide.
- Draw a V shape on the bridge of the nose, and trace around the edges of your nose to give it a hollowed out appearance.
- Trace out the hollows of the temples and cheeks using curved C shapes and connect them in the center with a small thin line. (See Step 2 image)
Step 3:Draw a horizontal line from each corner of the mouth to the center area of each cheek. Draw vertical lines through to roughly map out where the teeth will be.
Step 4:Draw tiny little V shapes at the top of each of the lines to create the tops of the teeth, and round the edges where the top and bottom teeth meet to give them a more realistic shape.
Step 5:With the black eyeliner pencil, connect the curved cheekbone line to the teeth by drawing an additional curved line to meet the top of two of the outermost teeth (the third or second last tooth are good ones to use for this step). (See Step 5 image)
Step 6:Soften the teeth by using a small smudge brush and a very small amount of black eyeshadow – buff your lines gently and neatly, creating subtle shading between each tooth and at the tops and bottoms of the teeth. Go back in with the liner pencil and darken the original lines you drew in for the teeth shape to create depth in the overall look.
Step 7:Fill in the eye sockets, nose, and cheekbone hollows using a concealer brush and black gel eyeliner. Use a shader brush to set the filled in areas with a very black, matte eyeshadow. Apply the eyeshadow more faintly around the edges to create a more faded shadowy appearance.
Step 8:Trace a soft line around the outer edges of the cheekbone hollows with your liner pencil to create a more realistic appearance, and gently buff the line with a small smudge brush to create a shadow.
Step 9:Using a contour or blush brush, gently soften the edges of all the filled in black areas by blending them out with a VERY small amount of black eyeshadow on your brush. Contour right where the forehead and hairline meet, under the jawline on either side of your chin, as well as just slightly above your temples. Contour two faint lines from inner brow to mid forehead to create a frowning expression. Really blend these areas well and with a very light hand to soften any hard edges or areas of over concentrated product.